Stability of inviscid shear shallow water flows with free surface is studied in the framework of the Benney equations. This is done by investigating the generalized hyperbolicity of the integrodifferential Benney system of equations. It is shown that all shear flows having monotonic convex velocity profiles are stable. The hydrodynamic approximations of the model corresponding to the classes of flows with piecewise linear continuous and discontinuous velocity profiles are derived and studied. It is shown that these approximations possess Hamiltonian structure and a complete system of Riemann invariants, which are found in an explicit form. Sufficient conditions for hyperbolicity of the governing equations for such multilayer flows are formulated. The generalization of the above results to the case of stratified fluid is less obvious, however, it is established that vorticity has a stabilizing effect.
Encyclopedic article covering shallow water wave models used in oceanography and atmospheric science. Sections: Definition of the Subject; Introduction and Historical Perspective; Completely Integrable Shallow Water Wave Equations; Shallow Water Wave Equations of Geophysical Fluid Dynamics; Computation of Solitary Wave Solutions; Numerical Methods; Water Wave Experiments and Observations; Future Directions, and Bibliography.
Long waves in shallow water propagating over a background shear flow towards a sloping beach are being investigated. The classical shallow-water equations are extended to incorporate both a background shear flow and a linear beach profile, resulting in a non-reducible hyperbolic system. Nevertheless, it is shown how several changes of variables based on the hodograph transform may be used to transform the system into a linear equation which may be solved exactly using the method of separation of variables. This method can be used to investigate the run-up of a long wave on a planar beach inclu…
In our paper we show that the Camassa-Holm equation does not represent a long wave asymptotic due to a major inconsistency with the theory of shallow water waves. We state that any solution of the Camassa-Holm equation, which is not asymptotically close to a solution of the Korteweg--de Vries equation is an artefact of the model and irrelevant to the theory of shallow water waves.
We extend the formalism of the statistical theory developed for the 2D Euler equation to the case of shallow water system. Relaxation equations towards the maximum entropy state are proposed, which provide a parametrization of sub-grid scale eddies in 2D compressible turbulence.
The shallow water equations without shear effects are similar to the gas dynamics equations with a polytropic equation of state. When the shear effects are taken into account, the equations contain additional evolution equations mathematically analogous to those of the Reynolds stresses in turbulent flows of compressible fluids when the source terms are neglected (ideal turbulence). We show that the non-dissipative model of shear shallow water flows and the model of ideal turbulence admit a similar variational formulation where, in the both cases, the equations for the Reynolds stress tensor e…
This gives a survey of our recent studies on soliton solutions of the Kadomtsev-Petviashvili equation with an emphasis on the Mach reflection problem in shallow water.
Using Levi-Civita's theory of ideal fluids, we derive the complex Korteweg-de Vries (KdV) equation, describing the complex velocity of a shallow fluid up to first order. We use perturbation theory, and the long wave, slowly varying velocity approximations for shallow water. The complex KdV equation describes the nontrivial dynamics of all water particles from the surface to the bottom of the water layer. A crucial new step made in our work is the proof that a natural consequence of the complex KdV theory is that the wave elevation is described by the real KdV equation. The complex KdV approach…
Extended shallow water wave equations are derived, using the method of asymptotic expansions, from the Euler (or water wave) equations. These extended models are valid one order beyond the usual weakly nonlinear, long wave approximation, incorporating all appropriate dispersive and nonlinear terms. Specifically, first we derive the extended Korteweg-de Vries (KdV) equation, and then proceed with the extended Benjamin-Bona-Mahony and the extended Camassa-Holm equations in (1+1)-dimensions, the extended cylindrical KdV equation in the quasi-one dimensional setting, as well as the extended Kadomt…
It is shown that spatially periodic one-dimensional surface waves in shallow water behave almost linearly, provided large part of the energy is contained in sufficiently high frequencies. The amplitude is not required to be small (apart from the shallow water approximation assumption) and the near-linear behavior occurs on a much longer time scale than might be anticipated based on the amplitude size. Heuristically speaking, this effect is due to the nonlinearity getting averaged by the dispersive action. This result is obtained by an averaging procedure, which is briefly outlined, and is also…
Two-dimensional nonlinear gravity waves travelling in shallow water on a vertically sheared current of constant vorticity are considered. Using Euler equations, in the shallow water approximation, hyperbolic equations for the surface elevation and the horizontal velocity are derived. Using Riemann invariants of these equations, that are obtained analytically, a closed-form nonlinear evolution equation for the surface elevation is derived. A dispersive term is added to this equation using the exact linear dispersion relation. With this new single first-order partial differential equation, vorti…
In this study, we propose an improved version of the nonlinear shallow water (or Saint-Venant) equations. This new model is designed to take into account the effects resulting from the large spacial and/or temporal variations of the seabed. The model is derived from a variational principle by choosing the appropriate shallow water ansatz and imposing suitable constraints. Thus, the derivation procedure does not explicitly involve any small parameter.
We present a broadband waveguide for water waves obtained through mere manipulation of seabed properties and without any need for sidewalls. Specifically, we show that a viscoelastic seabed results in a modified effective gravity term in the governing equations of water waves, which provides a generic broadband mechanism to control oceanic wave energy and enables confining surface waves inside a long narrow path without sidewalls. Our findings have promising applications in guiding and steering waves for oceanic wave energy farms or protecting shorelines.
In this paper, the instability of shallow water shear flow with a sheared parallel magnetic field is studied. Waves propagating in such magnetic shear flows encounter critical levels where the phase velocity relative to the basic flow $c-U(y)$ matches the Alfvén wave velocities $\pm B(y)/\sqrt{μρ}$, based on the local magnetic field $B(y)$, the magnetic permeability $μ$ and the mass density of the fluid $ρ$. It is shown that when the two critical levels are close to each other, the critical layer can generate an instability. The instability problem is solved, combining asymptotic solutions at …
The correct description of the surface water dynamics in the model of shallow water requires accounting for friction. To simulate a channel flow in the Chezy model the constant Manning roughness coefficient is frequently used. The Manning coefficient n M is an integral parameter which accounts for a large number of physical factors determining the flow braking. We used computational simulations in a shallow water model to determine the relationship between the Manning coefficient and the parameters of small-scale perturbations of a bottom in a long channel. Comparing the transverse water veloc…
A type of discrete Boltzmann model for simulating shallow water flows is derived by using the Hermite expansion approach. Through analytical analysis, we study the impact of truncating distribution function and discretizing particle velocity space. It is found that the convergence behavior of expansion is nontrivial while the conservation laws are naturally satisfied. Moreover, the balance of source terms and flux terms for steady solutions is not sacrificed. Further numerical validations show that the capability of simulating supercritical flows is enhanced by employing higher order expansion…
We adapt the statistical mechanics of the shallow-water equations to the case where the flow is forced at small scales. We assume that the statistics of forcing is encoded in a prior potential vorticity distribution which replaces the specification of the Casimir constraints in the case of freely evolving flows. This determines a generalized entropy functional which is maximized by the coarse-grained PV field at statistical equilibrium. Relaxation equations towards equilibrium are derived which conserve the robust constraints (energy, mass and circulation) and increase the generalized entropy.
The authors of the paper "The third-order perturbed Korteweg-de Vries equation for shallow water waves with a non-flat bottom" [1] claim that they have derived the full third order perturbed KdV equation for the case of uneven bottom. We show that the authors' derivation is not consistent due to the fact that they took into account only some of the third order corrections but not all of them. Moreover, we show that a consistent third order perturbed Korteweg-de Vries equation for shallow water waves with a non-flat bottom cannot be derived for a general form of bottom function.
We present an extensive numerical comparison of a family of balance models appropriate to the semi-geostrophic limit of the rotating shallow water equations, and derived by variational asymptotics in Oliver (2006) for small Rossby numbers ${\mathrm{Ro}}$. This family of generalized large-scale semi-geostrophic (GLSG) models contains the $L_1$-model introduced by Salmon (1983) as a special case. We use these models to produce balanced initial states for the full shallow water equations. We then numerically investigate how well these models capture the dynamics of an initially balanced shallow w…
In this paper, we consider a family of piecewise constant solutions of the quasi-geostrophic shallow-water (QGSW) equation. We derive the contour dynamics equation of the QGSW front, which is a nonlinear, nonlocal dispersive equation, and prove the global existence of the solutions when the initial data is sufficiently close to a flat front.
Partially invariant solution to (2+1)D shallow water equation is constructed and investigated. The solution describes an extension of a stripe, bounded by linear source and drain of fluid. Realizations of smooth flow and of hydraulic jump are possible. Particle trajectories and sonic characteristics on the obtained solution are calculated.
Lie symmetry analysis is applied to study the nonlinear rotating shallow water equations. The 9-dimensional Lie algebra of point symmetries admitted by the model is found. It is shown that the rotating shallow water equations are related with the classical shallow water model with the change of variables. The derived symmetries are used to generate new exact solutions of the rotating shallow equations. In particular, a new class of time-periodic solutions with quasi-closed particle trajectories is constructed and studied. The symmetry reduction method is also used to obtain some invariant solu…
During motion from deep to shallow water, multiple equilibria may emerge, each with identical drag - a phenomenon that can be explained by a localised amplification of the wave drag near the shallow wave speed. The implication of this is the emergence of several previously unstudied bifurcation patterns and hysteresis routes. Here, we address these nonlinear dynamics by considering the quasi-steady motion of a body between deep and shallow water, where the depth is slowly varying. We survey several theoretical models for the drag, compare these against our tow-tank experimental measurements, a…
In this paper, we are concerned with the shallow water flow model over non-flat bottom topography by high-order schemes. Most of the numerical schemes in the literature are developed from the original mathematical model of the shallow water flow. The novel contribution of this study consists in designing a finite-difference weighted essentially non-oscillatory (WENO) scheme based on the alternative formulation of the shallow water flow model, denoted as "pre-balanced" shallow water equations and introduced in [Journal of Computational Physics 192 (2003) 422-451]. This formulation greatly simpl…
It is well known that the KdV equation has an infinite set of conserved quantities. The first three are often considered to represent mass, momentum and energy. Here we try to answer the question of how this comes about, and also how these KdV quantities relate to those of the Euler shallow water equations. Here Luke's Lagrangian is helpful. We also consider higher order extensions of KdV. Though in general not integrable, in some sense they are almost so.
For propagation of surface shallow-water waves on irrotational flows, we derive a new two-component system. The system is obtained by a variational approach in the Lagrangian formalism. The system has a non-canonical Hamiltonian formulation. We also find its exact solitary-wave solutions.
The fundamental dispersion relation of transverse electro-magnetic waves in a cold collisionless plasma is formally equivalent to the two dimensional dispersion relation of inertio-gravity waves in a rotating shallow water system, where the Coriolis frequency can be identified with the plasma frequency, and the shallow water gravity wave phase speed plays the role of the speed of light. Here we examine this formal equivalence in the governing linearised equations, and compare between the propagation wave mechanisms in these seemingly unrelated physical systems.
In this paper, we shall implement KAM theory in order to construct a large class of time quasi-periodic solutions for an active scalar model arising in fluid dynamics. More precisely, the construction of invariant tori is performed for quasi-geostrophic shallow-water equations when the {\it Rossby deformation length} belongs to a massive Cantor set. As a consequence, we construct pulsating vortex patches whose boundary is localized in a thin annulus for any time.
In this article, we present a predictive model for the amplitude of impulse waves generated by the collapse of a granular column into a water layer. The model, which combines the spreading dynamics of the grains and the wave hydrodynamics in shallow water, is successfully compared to a large dataset of laboratory experiments, and captures the influence of the initial parameters while giving an accurate prediction. Furthermore, the role played on the wave generation by two key dimensionless numbers, i.e., the global Froude number and the relative volume of the immersed deposit, is rationalized.…
We review here the derivation of many of the most important models that appear in the literature (mainly in coastal oceanography) for the description of waves in shallow water. We show that these models can be obtained using various asymptotic expansions of the "turbulent" and non-hydrostatic terms that appear in the equations that result from the vertical integration of the free surface Euler equations. Among these models are the well-known nonlinear shallow water (NSW), Boussinesq and Serre-Green-Naghdi (SGN) equations for which we review several pending open problems. More recent models suc…
The modulation equations for Stokes waves in shallow water coupled to wave generated mean flow, derived in Whitham (1967), based on an averaged Lagrangian are revisited. Firstly, it is shown that they can be recast into two coupled classical shallow water equations, with modified gravity having the sign of the Whitham index: sign($ω_0'' ω_2$). Secondly, it is shown that the amplitude of the mean flow and amplitude of the wave are, in general, independent. Thirdly, the implications of the coalescing characteristics, whose unfolding is associated with the Benjamin-Feir instability, are studied.
In this paper we analyze the stability of equilibrium manifolds of hyperbolic shallow water moment equations. Shallow water moment equations describe shallow flows for complex velocity profiles which vary in vertical direction and the models can be seen as extensions of the standard shallow water equations. Equilibrium stability is an important property of balance laws that determines the linear stability of solutions in the vicinity of equilibrium manifolds and it is seen as a necessary condition for stable numerical solutions. After an analysis of the hyperbolic structure of the models, we i…
A basic shallow water system with variable topography is analyzed from the point of view of a Lagrangian derivation of momentum, energy, and pseudomomentum balances. A two-dimensional action and associated momentum equation are derived. The latter is further manipulated to derive additional equations for energy and pseudomomentum. This revealed structure emphasizes broken symmetries in space and a reference configuration, and preserved symmetry in time.
The regularisation of nonlinear hyperbolic conservation laws has been a problem of great importance for achieving uniqueness of weak solutions and also for accurate numerical simulations. In a recent work, the first two authors proposed a so-called Hamiltonian regularisation for nonlinear shallow water and isentropic Euler equations. The characteristic property of this method is that the regularisation of solutions is achieved without adding any artificial dissipation or ispersion. The regularised system possesses a Hamiltonian structure and, thus, formally preserves the corresponding energy f…
Our aim is to study the effect of a continuous prescribed density variation on the propagation of ocean waves. More precisely, we derive KdV-type shallow water model equations for unidirectional flows along the Equator from the full governing equations by taking into account a prescribed but arbitrary depth-dependent density distribution. In contrast to the case of constant density, we obtain for each fixed water depth a different model equation for the horizontal component of the velocity field. We derive explicit formulas for traveling wave solutions of these model equations and perform a de…
Within the framework of shallow-water magnetohydrodynamics, we investigate the linear instability of horizontal shear flows, influenced by an aligned magnetic field and stratification. Various classical instability results, such as Høiland's growth rate bound and Howard's semi-circle theorem, are extended to this shallow-water system for quite general profiles. Two specific piecewise-constant velocity profiles, the vortex sheet and the rectangular jet, are studied analytically and asymptotically; it is found that the magnetic field and stratification (as measured by the Froude number) are gene…
A statistical method for calculating equilibrium solutions of the shallow water equations, a model of essentially 2-d fluid flow with a free surface, is described. The model contains a competing acoustic turbulent {\it direct} energy cascade, and a 2-d turbulent {\it inverse} energy cascade. It is shown, nonetheless that, just as in the corresponding theory of the inviscid Euler equation, the infinite number of conserved quantities constrain the flow sufficiently to produce nontrivial large-scale vortex structures which are solutions to a set of explicitly derived coupled nonlinear partial dif…
In addition to deep-water rogue waves which develop from the modulation instability of an optical CW, wave propagation in optical fibers may also produce shallow water rogue waves. These extreme wave events are generated in the modulationally stable normal dispersion regime. A suitable phase or frequency modulation of a CW laser leads to chirp-free and flat-top pulses or flaticons which exhibit a stable self-similar evolution. Upon collision, flaticons at different carrier frequencies, which may also occur in wavelength division multiplexed transmission systems, merge into a single, high-inten…
Riemann problems at geometric discontinuities are a classic and fascinating issue of hydraulics. In the present paper, the complete solution to the Riemann problem of the one-dimensional Shallow water Equations at monotonic width discontinuities is presented. This solution is based on the assumption that the relationship between the states immediately to the left and to the right of the discontinuity is a stationary weak solution of the one-dimensional variable-width Shallow water Equations. It is demonstrated that the solution to the Riemann problem always exists and it is unique, but there a…
We present a geometrical demonstration for persistence properties for a bi-Hamiltonian system modelling waves in a shallow water regime. Both periodic and non-periodic cases are considered and a key ingredient in our approach is one of the Hamiltonians of the system. As a consequence of our developments we improve recent works dealing with unique continuation properties for shallow water equations, as well as we provide a novel way to prove that the unique compactly supported solution of the system is necessarily the zero function.
This paper presents a simple numerical scheme for the two dimensional Shallow-Water Equations (SWEs). Inspired by the study of numerical approximation of the one dimensional SWEs Audusse et al. (2015), this paper extends the problem from 1D to 2D with the simplicity of application preserves. The new scheme is implemented into the code TELEMAC-2D [tel2d, 2014] and several tests are made to verify the scheme ability under an equilibrium state at rest and different types of flow regime (i.e., fluvial regime, transcritical flow from fluvial to torrential regime, transcritical flow with a hydraulic…
The group properties of the shallow-water equations with the complete Coriolis force is the subject of this study. In particular we apply the Lie theory to classify the system of three nonlinear partial differential equations according to the admitted Lie point symmetries. For each case of the classification problem the one-dimensional optimal system is determined. The results are applied for the derivation of new similarity solutions.
Despite the sphericity of the collapsing stellar core, the birth conditions of neutron stars can be highly non spherical due to a hydrodynamical instability of the shocked accretion flow. Here we report the first laboratory experiment of a shallow water analogue, based on the physics of hydraulic jumps. Both the experiment and its shallow water modeling demonstrate a robust linear instability and nonlinear properties of symmetry breaking, in a system which is one million times smaller and about hundred times slower than its astrophysical analogue.
We modify the nonlinear shallow water equations, the Korteweg-de Vries equation, and the Whitham equation, to permit constant vorticity, and examine wave breaking, or the lack thereof. By wave breaking, we mean that the solution remains bounded but its slope becomes unbounded in finite time. We show that a solution of the vorticity-modified shallow water equations breaks if it carries an increase of elevation; the breaking time decreases to zero as the size of vorticity increases. We propose a full-dispersion shallow water model, which combines the dispersion relation of water waves and the no…
We investigate the particle trajectories in a constant vorticity shallow water flow over a flat bed as periodic waves propagate on the water's free surface. Within the framework of small amplitude waves, we find the solutions of the nonlinear differential equations system which describes the particle motion in the considered case, and we describe the possible particle trajectories. Depending on the relation between the initial data and the constant vorticity, some particle trajectories are undulating curves to the right, or to the left, others are loops with forward drift, or with backward dri…
We investigate the numerical artifact known as a carbuncle, in the solution of the shallow water equations. We propose a new Riemann solver that is based on a local measure of the entropy residual and aims to avoid carbuncles while maintaining high accuracy. We propose a new challenging test problem for shallow water codes, consisting of a steady circular hydraulic jump that can be physically unstable. We show that numerical methods are prone to either suppress the instability completely or form carbuncles. We test existing cures for the carbuncle. In our experiments, only the proposed method …
We revise the symmetry analysis of a modified system of one-dimensional shallow-water equations (MSWE) recently considered by Raja Sekhar and Sharma [Commun. Nonlinear Sci. Numer. Simulat. 20 (2012) 630-636]. Only a finite dimensional subalgebra of the maximal Lie invariance algebra of the MSWE, which in fact is infinite dimensional, was found in the aforementioned paper. The MSWE can be linearized using a hodograph transformation. An optimal list of inequivalent one-dimensional subalgebras of the maximal Lie invariance algebra is constructed and used for Lie reductions. Non-Lie solutions are …
