Two-dimensional free-surface potential flows of an ideal fluid over a strongly inhomogeneous bottom are investigated with the help of conformal mappings. Weakly-nonlinear and exact nonlinear equations of motion are derived by the variational method for arbitrary seabed shape parameterized by an analytical function. As applications of this theory, band structure of linear waves over periodic bottoms is calculated and evolution of a strong solitary wave running from a deep region to a shallow region is numerically simulated.
The correct description of the surface water dynamics in the model of shallow water requires accounting for friction. To simulate a channel flow in the Chezy model the constant Manning roughness coefficient is frequently used. The Manning coefficient n M is an integral parameter which accounts for a large number of physical factors determining the flow braking. We used computational simulations in a shallow water model to determine the relationship between the Manning coefficient and the parameters of small-scale perturbations of a bottom in a long channel. Comparing the transverse water veloc…
In this paper, the phenomenon of band gaps and Anderson localization of water waves over one-dimensional periodic and random bottoms is investigated by the transfer matrix method. The results indicate that the range of localization in random bottoms can be coincident with the band gaps for the corresponding periodic bottoms. Inside the gap or localization regime, a collective behavior of water waves appears. The results are also compared with acoustic and optical situations.
An explicit expression in terms of canonical variables is obtained for the Hamiltonian functional determining the fully nonlinear dynamics of two-dimensional potential flows of an ideal fluid with a free surface over an arbitrary nonuniform depth. The canonically conjugate variables are derived from the previously developed non-canonical conformal description of water waves over a strongly undulating bottom [V. P. Ruban, Phys. Rev. E {\bf 70}, 066302 (2004)]. Also an alternative approach to the problem is discussed, which gives weakly nonlinear Hamiltonian models of different orders.
The authors of the paper "The third-order perturbed Korteweg-de Vries equation for shallow water waves with a non-flat bottom" [1] claim that they have derived the full third order perturbed KdV equation for the case of uneven bottom. We show that the authors' derivation is not consistent due to the fact that they took into account only some of the third order corrections but not all of them. Moreover, we show that a consistent third order perturbed Korteweg-de Vries equation for shallow water waves with a non-flat bottom cannot be derived for a general form of bottom function.
We investigate the particle trajectories in a constant vorticity shallow water flow over a flat bed as periodic waves propagate on the water's free surface. Within the framework of small amplitude waves, we find the solutions of the nonlinear differential equations system which describes the particle motion in the considered case, and we describe the possible particle trajectories. Depending on the relation between the initial data and the constant vorticity, some particle trajectories are undulating curves to the right, or to the left, others are loops with forward drift, or with backward dri…
This work investigates the topical problem of balancing the shallow water equations over the bottom steps of different heights. The current approaches in the literature are essentially based on mathematical analysis of the hyperbolic system of balance equations and take into account the relevant progress in treating the non-conservative form of the governing system in the framework of path-conservative schemes. An important problem under debate is the correct position of the momentum balance closure when the bottom elevation is discontinuous. Cases of technical interest are systematically anal…
Here I present a general formulation of water wave propagation and scattering over topographical bottoms. A simple equation is found and is compared with existing theories. As an application, the theory is extended to the case of water waves in a column with many cylindrical steps.
Two-dimensional potential flows of an ideal fluid with a free surface are considered in situations when shape of the bottom depends on time due to external reasons. Exact nonlinear equations describing surface waves in terms of the so called conformal variables are derived for an arbitrary time-evolving bottom parameterized by an analytical function. An efficient numerical method for the obtained equations is suggested.
Water can be transitioned to an enhanced heat-conducting phase by supercooling only the water at the bottom of a container. The temperature gradient across the 4 cm in the center of an 8 cm long column of water with a 397 mW heat source at the top was lowered from 32oC to 0.75oC when the temperature at the bottom of the column was lowered from 1.2 oC to -5.6oC. The effective thermal conductivity of the water was increased from ~0.607 W/mK to ~24 W/mK. This result demonstrates that water has a high effective thermal conducting phase that has not been previously reported.
The propagation of surface water waves over rough topographical bottoms is investigated by the multiple scattering theory. It is shown that the waves can be localized spatially through the process of multiple scattering and wave interference, a peculiar wave phenomenon which has been previously discussed for frozen light in optical systems (S. John, Nature {\bf 390}, 661, (1997)). We demonstrate that when frozen, the transmission of the waves falls off exponentially, and a cooperative behavior appears, fully supporting previous predictions. A phase diagram method is used to illustrate this dis…
A formulation of the shallow water equations adapted to general complex terrains is proposed. Its derivation starts from the observation that the typical approach of depth integrating the Navier-Stokes equations along the direction of gravity forces is not exact in the general case of a tilted curved bottom. We claim that an integration path that better adapts to the shallow water hypotheses follows the "cross-flow" surface, i.e., a surface that is normal to the velocity field at any point of the domain. Because of the implicitness of this definition, we approximate this "cross-flow" path by p…
Tsunamis are often generated by a moving sea bottom. This paper deals with the case where the tsunami source is an earthquake. The linearized water-wave equations are solved analytically for various sea bottom motions. Numerical results based on the analytical solutions are shown for the free-surface profiles, the horizontal and vertical velocities as well as the bottom pressure.
Data assimilation has been applied to coastal hydrodynamic models to better estimate system states or parameters by incorporating observed data into the model. Kalman Filter (KF) is one of the most studied data assimilation methods whose application is limited to linear systems. For nonlinear systems such as hydrodynamic models a variation of the KF called Ensemble Kalman Filter (EnKF) is applied to update the system state in the context of Monte Carlo simulation. In this research, a dual EnKF approach is used to simultaneously estimate state (water surface elevation) and parameters (bottom ro…
In this paper, the propagation of water surface waves over one-dimensional periodic and random bottoms is investigated by the transfer matrix method. For the periodic bottoms, the band structure is calculated, and the results are compared to the transmission results. When the bottoms are randomized, the Anderson localization phenomenon is observed. The theory has been applied to an existing experiment (Belzons, et al., J. Fluid Mech. {\bf 186}, 530 (1988)). In general, the results are compared favorably with the experimental observation.
Governing equations for two-dimensional inviscid free-surface flows with constant vorticity over arbitrary non-uniform bottom profile are presented in exact and compact form using conformal variables. An efficient and very accurate numerical method for this problem is developed.
We study the evolution of nonlinear surface gravity water-wave packets developing from modulational instability over an uneven bottom. A nonlinear Schrödinger equation (NLSE) with coefficients varying in space along propagation is used as a reference model. Based on a low-dimensional approximation obtained by considering only three complex harmonic modes, we discuss how to stabilize a one-dimensional pattern in the form of train of large peaks sitting on a background and propagating over a significant distance. Our approach is based on a gradual depth variation, while its conceptual framework …
The regularisation of nonlinear hyperbolic conservation laws has been a problem of great importance for achieving uniqueness of weak solutions and also for accurate numerical simulations. In a recent work, the first two authors proposed a so-called Hamiltonian regularisation for nonlinear shallow water and isentropic Euler equations. The characteristic property of this method is that the regularisation of solutions is achieved without adding any artificial dissipation or ispersion. The regularised system possesses a Hamiltonian structure and, thus, formally preserves the corresponding energy f…
The impact of a plunging breaker on a partially submerged cube is explored experimentally in a wave tank equipped with a programable wave maker. The experiments are conducted with the cube (dimension $L=30.48$ cm) positioned at one streamwise location relative to the wave maker and at three heights relative to the undisturbed water level. A single, repeatable wave maker motion producing a breaker with a nominal wavelength of 1.18 m is used. The water surface profile at the stream wise vertical center plane of the cube is measured with a cinematic Laser-Induced Fluorescence technique and the im…
A Hamiltonian model for the propagation of internal water waves interacting with surface waves, a current and an uneven bottom is examined. Using the so-called Dirichlet-Neumann operators, the water wave system is expressed in the Hamiltonian form, and thus the motions of the internal waves and surface waves are determined by the Hamiltonian formulation. Choosing an appropriate scaling of the variables and employing the Hamiltonian perturbation theory from Hamiltonian formulation of the dynamics, we derive a KdV-type equation with variable coefficients depending on the bottom topography to des…
It is shown that surface waves propagating against the external current, slowly varying in the horizontal direction in deep water, are governed by the equation which is tantamount to the Gross - Pitaevskii equation modelling the mean-field dynamics of Bose - Einstein condensate. The repulsive or attractive sign of the cubic term in the Gross -Pitaevskii equation is controlled by the choice of the carrier wavelength of the surface waves, while the spatial variation of the current plays the role of the external potential in that equation. The current profile can be easily controlled in the exper…
The reconstruction of water wave elevation from bottom pressure measurements is an important issue for coastal applications, but corresponds to a difficult mathematical problem. In this paper we present the derivation of a method which allows the elevation reconstruction of water waves in intermediate and shallow waters. From comparisons with numerical Euler solutions and wave-tank experiments we show that our nonlinear method provides much better results of the surface elevation reconstruction compared to the linear transfer function approach commonly used in coastal applications. More specif…
Coupled mixed convective and stratified systems are common in natural flows. To study experimentally the associated dynamics, we use a singular property of water: its non-linear equation of state is characterised by a maximum density close to $4^{\circ}$C. By heating the top of a tank at $35^{\circ}$C and cooling the bottom at $0^{\circ}$C, a two-layer configuration spontaneously appears. The convective motion in the bottom layer consists mostly of a large-scale circulation and rising cold plumes. This turbulent flow generates propagating internal gravity waves in the upper stably-stratified l…
Here we investigate the propagation and scattering of surface water waves by arrays of bottom-mounted cylindrical steps. Both periodic and random arrangements of the steps are considered. The wave transmission through the arrays is computed using the multiple scattering method based upon a recently derived formulation. For the periodic case, the results are compared to the band structure calculation. We demonstrate that complete band gaps can be obtained in such a system. Furthermore, we show that the randomization of the location of the steps can significantly reduce the transmission of water…
A forced KdV equation is derived to describe weakly nonlinear, shallow water surface wave propagation over non trivial bottom boundary condition. We show that different functional forms of bottom boundary conditions self-consistently produce different forced kdV equations as the evolution equations for the free surface. Solitary wave solutions have been analytically obtained where phase gets modulated controlled by bottom boundary condition whereas amplitude remains constant.
In this paper we study the transformation of surface envelope solitons travelling over a bottom step in water of a finite depth. Using the transformation coefficients earlier derived in the linear approximation, we find the parameters of transmitted pulses and subsequent evolution of the pulses in the course of propagation. Relying on the weakly nonlinear theory, the analytic formulae are derived which describe the maximum attainable wave amplitude in the neighbourhood of the step and in the far zone. Solitary waves may be greatly amplified (within the weakly nonlinear theory formally even wit…
We numerically investigate the flow structure of periodic steady water waves of fixed relative mass flux propagating on rotational flows with piece-wise constant vorticity. We show that for wave solutions along the global bifurcation diagram the stagnation point can first occur internally or at the bottom, and then again occurs at the crest with further increase in wave height. We observe that the bifurcation diagram has a new branch which is not connected to the trivial solution. Furthermore, we present an in-depth discussion of the results on pressure distributions and particle trajectories …
Development of mass-source function based numerical wave tank (NWT) algorithms in the Navier-Stokes (NSE) framework is impeded by multiple design issues such as: (a) optimization of a number of variables characterizing the source region, (b) wave-vorticity interactions and (c) a mandatory requirement of modeling the domain on both sides of the wavemaker. In this paper, we circumvent these hurdles by proposing a volume-preserving inflow-boundary based Navier-Stokes wave tank. Wave generation and propagation is modeled in a two-phase PLIC-VOF set-up. Near-exact volume preservation is achieved (a…
Wave front propagation with non-trivial bottom topography is studied within the formalism of hyperbolic long wave models. Evolution of non-smooth initial data is examined, and in particular the splitting of singular points and their short time behaviour is described. In the opposite limit of longer times, the local analysis of wavefronts is used to estimate the gradient catastrophe formation and how this is influenced by the topography. The limiting cases when the free surface intersects the bottom boundary, belonging to the so-called "physical" and "non-physical" vacuum classes, are examined.…
The computation of long wave propagation through the ocean obviously depends on the initial condition. When the waves are generated by a moving bottom, a traditional approach consists in translating the ``frozen'' sea bed deformation to the free surface and propagating it. The present study shows the differences between the classical approach (passive generation) and the active generation where the bottom motion is included. The analytical solutions presented here exhibit some of the drawbacks of passive generation. The linearized solutions seem to be sufficient to consider the generation of w…
Generation of two-dimensional water waves by moving bottom disturbances
BCAM - The Basque Center for Applied Mathematics（巴斯克应用数学中心）；University College Dublin, School of Mathematical Sciences（都柏林大学学院数学科学学院）；LAMA, UMR 5127 CNRS, Université de Savoie（萨瓦大学LAMA实验室）；Ikerbasque, Basque Foundation for Science（伊卡巴斯科科学基金会）
In this paper we address a particular fluid-solid interaction problem in which the solid object is lying at the bottom of a layer of fluid and moves under the forces created by waves travelling on the surface of this layer. More precisely, we consider the water waves problem in a fluid of fixed depth with a flat bottom topography and with an object lying on the bottom, allowed to move horizontally under the pressure forces created by the waves. After establishing the physical setting of the problem, namely the dynamics of the fluid and the mechanics of the solid motion, as well as analyzing th…
We present explicit solutions for the ordinary differential equations system describing the motion of the particles beneath small-amplitude capillary-gravity waves which propagate on the surface of an irrotational water flow with a flat bottom. The required computations involve elliptic integrals of first kind, the Legendre normal form and a solvable Abel differential equation of the second kind.
A new description for highly nonlinear potential water waves is suggested, where weak 3D effects are included as small corrections to exact 2D equations written in conformal variables. Contrary to the traditional approach, a small parameter in this theory is not the surface slope, but it is the ratio of a typical wave length to a large transversal scale along the second horizontal coordinate. A first-order correction for the Hamiltonian functional is calculated, and the corresponding equations of motion are derived for steep water waves over an arbitrary inhomogeneous quasi-1D bottom profile.
The propagation of surface water waves interacting with a current and an uneven bottom is studied. Such a situation is typical for ocean waves where the winds generate currents in the top layer of the ocean. The role of the bottom topography is taken into account since it also influences the local wave and current patterns. Specific scaling of the variables is selected which leads to approximations of Boussinesq and KdV types. The arising KdV equation with variable coefficients, dependent on the bottom topography, is studied numerically when the initial condition is in the form of the one soli…
