波板破碎波的统计特性和能量耗散
Wave Statistics and Energy Dissipation of Breaking Waves Generated by a Wave Plate
摘要：
本文主要研究定水深条件下波浪板产生破碎波的直接数值模拟。目的是量化破碎过程中的动力学和运动学，以及由于破碎而引起的空气夹带和能量耗散。在自由表面轮廓，能量预算，和气泡统计在波浪破碎的数值和实验结果之间取得了良好的协议。进行了参数研究，以检查波浪的属性和初始条件的破碎功能的影响。根据对Bond数（$Bo$，重力与表面张力的比率）的研究，较大的表面张力在波型的前表面处产生更显著的寄生毛细管和更厚的俯冲射流，这导致延迟的破碎时间，并且与主空腔尺寸紧密相关。波的统计和波板的初始条件之间的密切关系被发现，显示破碎机类型可以根据波高水深比，$H/d$分类。此外，由于破碎的能量耗散率可以通过应用湍流理论的传统耗散标度与波板的初始条件相关，并进一步与使用惯性标度参数的局部破碎波峰的几何形状相关。在主动破碎期间的耗散率的建议缩放被发现是在很好的协议与我们的数值结果。
英文摘要：
The present study focuses on direct numerical simulations of breaking waves generated by a wave plate at constant water depths. The aim is to quantify the dynamics and kinematics in the breaking process, together with the air entrainment and energy dissipation due to breaking. Good agreement is achieved between numerical and experimental results in terms of free-surface profiles, energy budget, and bubble statistics during wave breaking. A parametric study was conducted to examine the effects of wave properties and initial conditions on breaking features. According to research on the Bond number ($Bo$, the ratio of gravitational to surface tension forces), a larger surface tension produces more significant parasitic capillaries at the forward face of the wave profile and a thicker plunging jet, which causes a delayed breaking time and is tightly correlated with the main cavity size. A close relationship between wave statistics and the initial conditions of the wave plate is discovered, showing that breaker types can be classified according to the ratio of wave height to water depth, $H/d$. Moreover, the energy dissipation rate due to breaking can be related to the initial conditions of the wave plate by applying the conventional dissipation scaling of turbulence theory, and further correlated with the local breaking crest geometry using inertial-scaling arguments. The proposed scaling of the dissipation rate during the active breaking period is found to be in good agreement with our numerical results.
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