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arXiv 2301.06381physics.flu-dyn
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强垂直切变海流上弱非线性波的统计特性

Statistics of weakly nonlinear waves on currents with strong vertical shear

Zibo Zheng, Yan Li, Simen Å Ellingsen

摘要:

我们调查如何存在的垂直剪切电流影响波的统计数据,包括流氓波的概率,并将其应用到现实世界的情况下,使用测量的频谱和剪切电流数据从哥伦比亚河口。导出了适用于波陡二阶的弱非线性波理论,并用于分析表面波的统计特性;该理论扩展了Longuet-Higgins的经典理论[J.FluidMech.12,3(1962)],以允许任意深度依赖的背景流,$U(z)$,其中$U$是沿着波传播的主方向的水平速度,而$z$是垂直轴。数值统计收集了大量的随机,不规则的海况实现JONSWAP频谱,线性和指数模型电流的不同强度。提出了一些统计量,并与文献中的一系列理论表达式进行了比较;特别是波面高程、表面最大值和波峰高度的分布;包括流氓波概率在内的波动概率; $N_s$波之间的最大波峰高度,以及表面高程分布的偏斜度。我们发现,与无剪切条件相比,反向垂直剪切($U'(z)>0$)导致波高增加和非线性波高程分布的偏度增加,而随后的剪切($U'(z)<0$)具有相反的效果。利用Zippel & Thomson在哥伦比亚河口实测的波浪谱和流速剖面[J. Geophys.结果:海洋122,3311(2017)]我们的二阶理论预测,在退潮和洪水期间,流氓波的概率分别显着降低和增强,这为在波浪建模和预测中需要考虑剪切流的概念提供了支持。

英文摘要:

We investigate how the presence of a vertically sheared current affects wave statistics, including the probability of rogue waves, and apply it to a real-world case using measured spectral and shear current data from the Mouth of the Columbia River. A theory for weakly nonlinear waves valid to second order in wave steepness is derived, and used to analyze statistical properties of surface waves; the theory extends the classic theory by Longuet-Higgins [J. Fluid Mech. 12, 3 (1962)] to allow for an arbitrary depth-dependent background flow, $U(z)$, with $U$ the horizontal velocity along the main direction of wave propagation and $z$ the vertical axis. Numerical statistics are collected from a large number of realisations of random, irregular sea-states following a JONSWAP spectrum, on linear and exponential model currents of varying strengths. A number of statistical quantities are presented and compared to a range of theoretical expressions from the literature; in particular the distribution of wave surface elevation, surface maxima, and crest height; the exceedance probability including the probability of rogue waves; the maximum crest height among $N_s$ waves, and the skewness of the surface elevation distribution. We find that compared to no-shear conditions, opposing vertical shear ($U'(z)>0$) leads to increased wave height and increased skewness of the nonlinear-wave elevation distribution, while a following shear ($U'(z)<0$) has opposite effects. With the wave spectrum and velocity profile measured in the Columbia River estuary by Zippel & Thomson [J. Geophys. Res: Oceans 122, 3311 (2017)] our second--order theory predicts that the probability of rogue waves is significantly reduced and enhanced during ebb and flood, respectively, adding support to the notion that shear currents need to be accounted for in wave modelling and prediction.

机构、总结、中文摘要均由AI分析而来,可能存在错误,请以论文正文为准。

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