风浪生成过程中波浪特性的演变
Evolution of Wave Characteristics during Wind-Wave Generation
摘要：
由风产生的海洋表面波是一个经典的流体力学问题，其理论研究可以追溯到1957年，当时菲利普斯和迈尔斯的两篇开创性论文发表在早期的流体力学杂志上。全面了解风浪产生的机理对许多海军应用至关重要。在此，我们介绍我们在这一深刻而长期存在的问题上的工作的最新进展。我们进行了波相分辨的直接数值模拟（DNS）的湍流气流在最初平静的水面，动态响应的风强迫。我们的模拟揭示了整个风浪生成过程中表面波统计的演变。在湍流风强迫作用下，波浪起伏随时间的增长，地表高程方差的时间增长行为从线性增长过渡到指数增长。此外，表面波表现出非线性在后期阶段的模拟时，波的振幅是显着的，足以改变气流场。基于这个丰富的DNS数据集，我们系统地研究了潜在的机制，并报告了该问题的理论分析的几个进展。
英文摘要：
The generation of ocean surface waves by wind is a classic fluid mechanics problem whose theoretical study dates back to 1957, when the two seminal papers by Phillips and Miles were published in the incipient Journal of Fluid Mechanics. Comprehensively understanding the mechanism of wind-wave generation is of crucial importance to many naval applications. Here, we present the recent developments of our work on this profound and long-standing problem. We perform a wave phase-resolved direct numerical simulation (DNS) of the turbulent airflow over an initially calm water surface that responds dynamically to the wind forcing. Our simulation reveals the evolution of the surface wave statistics over the entire wind-wave generation process. As the wave fluctuations grow with time under the turbulent wind forcing, the temporal growth behavior of the surface elevation variance transitions from linear growth to exponential growth. Moreover, surface waves exhibit nonlinearity at the late stage of simulation when the wave amplitude is significant enough to alter the airflow field. Based on this rich DNS dataset, we systematically study the underlying mechanism and report several advances in the theoretical analysis of this problem.
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