表面重力波破碎、起始和起始的能量学
On the energetics of breaking inception and onset in surface gravity waves
摘要：
破碎表面重力波的发生和强度的精确预报是一个长期存在的具有重要理论意义和应用价值的问题。最近，Barthélémy等人（https：//doi.org/10.1017/jfm.2018.93）研究了深水和中深水中聚焦波群的能量学，发现破碎和非破碎状态被波峰尖端附近的归一化能通量$B$清楚地分开。此外，过渡的$B$通过一个通用的打破阈值$B_\mathrm{th} \approx 0.85$被发现之前，可见的打破发病高达五分之一的波周期。这一显着的通用阈值，打破开始已经验证了数值为2D和3D域和浅水波，但是，目前还没有理论解释其有效性作为一个预测打破。本研究探讨了参数$B$和波峰能量增长率之间的对应关系的不断发展的波峰破碎和非破碎波在一个数值波浪水槽使用一系列的波包配置。我们的研究结果表明，时间的变化率的$B$是强烈相关的能量密度收敛速度在不断发展的波峰。这些发现进一步推进了目前对波浪破碎这一难以捉摸的过程的理解。
英文摘要：
Accurate prediction of the onset and strength of breaking surface gravity waves is a long-standing problem of significant theoretical and applied interest. Recently, Barthélémy et al (https://doi.org/10.1017/jfm.2018.93) examined the energetics of focusing wave groups in deep and intermediate depth water and found that breaking and non-breaking regimes were clearly separated by the normalised energy flux, $B$, near the crest tip. Furthermore, the transition of $B$ through a generic breaking threshold value $B_\mathrm{th} \approx 0.85$ was found to precede visible breaking onset by up to one fifth of a wave period. This remarkable generic threshold for breaking inception has since been validated numerically for 2D and 3D domains and for shallow and shoaling water waves; however, there is presently no theoretical explanation for its efficacy as a predictor for breaking. This study investigates the correspondence between the parameter $B$ and the crest energy growth rate following the evolving crest for breaking and non-breaking waves in a numerical wave tank using a range of wave packet configurations. Our results indicate that the time rate of change of the $B$ is strongly correlated with the energy density convergence rate at the evolving wave crest. These findings further advance present understanding of the elusive process of wave breaking.
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