中深水重力波破碎起始阈值的统一
On a unified breaking onset threshold for gravity waves in deep and intermediate depth water
摘要：
我们重温经典的，但尚未解决的问题，预测打破发病的二维和三维无旋重力水波。这项研究的重点领域与平坦的海底地形和条件范围从深到中等深度（深度波长比从1到0.2）。我们的计算基于一个完全非线性的边界元模型调查几何，运动学和能量的差异之间的最大经常性和边缘碎波聚焦波群。最陡的非破碎（最大经常性）波从轻微的碎波明显分开，其归一化的能量通量位于波峰区域附近。在表面上，这降低到能量通量速度（这里是流体速度）与演化组中最高波的波峰点速度的局部比率。这为在从深到中间的均匀水深中传播的2D和3D波包的破裂起始提供了鲁棒的阈值参数。发现在断裂事件之前的载波波周期的五分之一检测到即将断裂开始的警告。
英文摘要：
We revisit the classical but as yet unresolved problem of predicting the breaking onset of 2D and 3D irrotational gravity water waves. This study focuses on domains with flat bottom topography and conditions ranging from deep to intermediate depth (depth to wavelength ratio from 1 to 0.2). Our calculations based on a fully nonlinear boundary element model investigated geometric, kinematic and energetic differences between maximally recurrent and marginally breaking waves in focusing wave groups. Maximally steep non-breaking (maximally recurrent) waves are clearly separated from marginally breaking waves by their normalised energy fluxes localized near the crest region. On the surface, this reduces to the local ratio of the energy flux velocity (here the fluid velocity) to the crest point velocity for the tallest wave in the evolving group. This provides a robust threshold parameter for breaking onset for 2D and 3D wave packets propagating in uniform water depths from deep to intermediate. Warning of imminent breaking onset was found to be detected up to a fifth of a carrier wave period prior to a breaking event.
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