水深突变引起的异常波动统计
Anomalous wave statistics induced by abrupt depth change
摘要：
实验室实验表明，海底地形的变化可以定性地改变随机表面波的分布。正态分布的单向波场在遇到突然的深度过渡时变得高度倾斜和非高斯。在转捩下游的一小段距离内，波的统计数据与伽马分布非常接近，从而可以对偏度、峰度和其他统计特性进行简单的估计。重要的是，伽马分布的指数衰减比高斯分布慢得多，这意味着极端事件发生得更频繁。在这里考虑的条件下，异常波的概率可以增加50倍或更多。我们还报告的表面斜率的统计和实验中产生的波的光谱内容。
英文摘要：
Laboratory experiments reveal that variations in bottom topography can qualitatively alter the distribution of randomized surface waves. A normally-distributed, unidirectional wave field becomes highly skewed and non-Gaussian upon encountering an abrupt depth transition. A short distance downstream of the transition, wave statistics conform closely to a gamma distribution, affording simple estimates for skewness, kurtosis, and other statistical properties. Importantly, the exponential decay of the gamma distribution is much slower than Gaussian, signifying that extreme events occur more frequently. Under the conditions considered here, the probability of a rogue wave can increase by a factor of 50 or more. We also report on the surface-slope statistics and the spectral content of the waves produced in the experiments.
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