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arXiv 1206.1491physics.flu-dyn
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有限水深风浪的增长

The growth of wind-waves in finite depth

P. Montalvo, J. Dorignac, M. A. Manna, C. Kharif, H. Branger

摘要:

为了研究有限水深中风浪的增长,我们将Miles的理论推广到有限水深区域。从风/水界面的频散关系导出了与深度有关的波浪增长率。一个合适的无量纲的有限深度波龄参数允许我们绘制一个家庭的波生长曲线,每个家庭成员的水深的特点。两个主要的结果是,对于小波浪年龄,波的增长率是可比的深水和大波浪年龄,有限深度的波年龄限制增长达到,波的增长率为零。分别计算了浅水和深水情况下相应的极限波长和极限相速。与著名的实证结果的定性协议的建立,并显示了强大的线性理论方法的一致性。

英文摘要:

In order to study the growth of wind waves in finite depth we extend Miles' theory to the finite depth domain. A depth-dependent wave growth rate is derived from the dispersion relation of the wind/water interface. A suitable dimensionless finite depth wave age parameter allows us to plot a family of wave growth curves, each family member characterized by the water depth. Two major results are that for small wave age, the wave growth rates are comparable to those of deep water and for large wave age, a finite-depth wave-age-limited growth is reached, with wave growth rates going to zero. The corresponding limiting wave length and limiting phase speed are explicitely calculated in the shallow and in the deep water cases. A qualitative agreement with well-known empirical results is established and shows the robust consistency of the linear theoretical approach.

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