1900年以来香水的文化演变
Cultural Evolution of Perfumes since 1900
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中文总结 AI 辅助
研究1900年以来香水文化演变，通过多学科计算框架，利用众包数据表征香水，构建复制谱系和合作网络，发现香味特征变简约、香调组合更新颖，创作风格具传染性，还探讨了演变的主要力量。
中文摘要 AI 辅助
香水是文化产物和感官艺术作品，由有限且可重组的香调组成，能唤起独特的气味印象。本文汇集了迄今为止最大的香水语料库，涵盖1900年至2024年的多个独立数据库，并通过多学科计算框架研究其演变。首先利用众包数据根据复杂性和新颖性等属性对香水进行表征，发现其香味特征变得更简约，但香调组合更新颖，这一转变始于20世纪90年代。接着构建复制谱系网络并研究香调在连续时间窗口中的选择方式。还构建了调香师合作网络，表明调香师的创作风格具有社会传染性。最后讨论了影响这一演变的主要力量。研究结果将香水定位为一个文化演变系统。
英文摘要
Perfumes are cultural artifacts and works of sensory art, composed from a finite, recombinable palette of notes that together evoke a distinctive scent impression. Here, we assemble the largest perfume corpus compiled to date, spanning multiple independent databases from 1900 to 2024, and study its evolution through a multidisciplinary computational framework. We first characterize perfumes by properties such as complexity and novelty using crowd-sourced data, finding that compositions have grown more minimalist in their scent profiles, yet more novel in their note combinations, a transition that began in the 1990s. Next, we construct copy-lineage networks and examine how notes are selected across successive time windows. We show that although imitation is pervasive, a growing share of notes drifts free of selection, and original creations retain a measurable quality premium, where they last longer, project further, and earn higher regard. Finally, we construct the collaboration network of master perfumers and show that a perfumer's creative style behaves as a social contagion, transmitted through collaboration and decaying with social distance. We discuss the principal forces shaping this evolution, including regulatory restrictions, cultural change, and the consolidation in the industry. Our findings position perfume as a culturally evolving system, akin to music and fashion, through which societies express and communicate hedonic sensory experiences.
