AI 中文总结
研究沿海异常波形成与增强和冲浪区低概率矛盾，通过考虑波浪破碎非线性等因素建立理论，在水槽实验中探测非均匀波场，证实陡坡防波堤附近过高峰度大，对沿海地区理解关键。
AI 中文摘要
在过去十年中，沿海地区出现了异常波的形成和增强现象。这似乎与在冲浪区附近观察到的低异常波（RW）概率相矛盾。在不考虑波浪破碎的情况下，预计在该区域会出现RW放大。为了解决这一差距，我们通过高度与深度比的代理来考虑波浪破碎的完全非线性效应，通过WKB近似来考虑波数的空间变化，以及通过斜率校正的折射缓坡方程来考虑在防波堤上传播的不规则波场的能量学。通过将有效波高增加到破碎极限，由于非线性，动能的增长速度比表面高程的方差更快。因此，峰度衰减，尽管没有达到亚高斯统计的程度。我们从而解决了浅滩开始时RW出现概率增加但随后当波浪破碎占主导时又降低的明显矛盾。基于这些理论发展，我们通过实验探测接近波浪破碎状态的非均匀波场。我们在一个30米长的波浪水槽中进行单向不规则波实验，在一个底部坡度为1/5的对称淹没防波堤上产生宽带波，从而能够详细表征频谱演化以及即使在这个陡坡的破碎极限附近仍存在的过高峰度的持续性。我们从而证实，如果底部坡度陡峭，过高峰度仍然可以很大，其最大值至少比其他海洋过程大4倍，出现在防波堤顶部及其浅滩后约一半深水峰值波长距离处。由于这些条件在海岸线附近很典型，这种理解对沿海地区至关重要。
英文摘要
Rogue wave formation and enhancement over coastal areas have been documented over the last decade. This seems to contradict the observed low rogue wave (RW) probability near the surf zone. Without considering wave breaking, RW amplification is expected in this regime. To address this gap, we consider fully nonlinear effects of wave breaking through the proxy of height-to-depth ratio, spatial changes on the wavenumber through the WKB approximation, and slope-corrected refraction mild-slope equations on the energetics of irregular wave fields travelling over a breakwater. By increasing the significant wave height towards the breaking limit, the kinetic energy grows faster than the variance of the surface elevation due to nonlinearity. Thus, the kurtosis decays, albeit not to the point of getting sub-Gaussian statistics. We thereby resolve the apparent paradox of the occurrence probability of RW increase at the beginning of shoaling but subsequently decrease when wave breaking becomes dominant. Motivated by these theoretical developments, we experimentally probe inhomogeneous wave fields nearing the wave-breaking regime. We conduct unidirectional irregular wave experiments in a 30 m long wave flume, generating broad-banded waves over a symmetric submerged breakwater featuring a bottom slope of 1/5, allowing detailed characterization of spectral evolution and the persistence of elevated excess kurtosis even near the breaking limit for this steep slope. We thereby confirm that the excess kurtosis can still be large if the bottom slope is steep, and its maximum value is at least 4 times larger than in other ocean processes, occurring atop the breakwater and about half of its deep water peak wavelength distance after the shoal. As these conditions are typical near shorelines, this understanding is key to coastal areas.
CommentsThis submission was intended as a replacement of article 2502.00400 and any subsequent updates will appear there
Journal refPhys. Fluids 38, 067107 (2026)
